"Resign yourself, Catherine! Shops must be visited! Money must be spent! Do you think you could bear it?" - Northanger Abbey

Sunday, December 20, 2015

HSF 2015 - Challenge #12 - Redo

What the item is: Bodiced petticoat/supportive kirtle

The Challenge: #12 re-do

What Challange/s are you re-doing?: 1# foundations

Fabric: Melton wool/cotton 100%

Pattern: Tudor tailor kirtle

Year: 1510s

Notions: Eyelets lacing

How historically accurate is it? The pattern is right but i compromise on fabric for budget reasons

Hours to complete: Approx. 10 i lost track.

First worn: Several times for fittings...as I'm making an over gown for it.

Total cost: As I was using up my stash guesstimate £35.

So this kirtle took me a while to make so I didn't manage to start/ finish it in time for the challenge I wanted to do this for hence it became a redo project.

I drew out the kirtle bodice pattern from the tudor tailor book straight onto the fabric. Initially using my dress form to pinch out the excess for the first version of the toile. Then I recut and tried pinning it on myself with the sides basted. I ended up changing the straps, waistline height and taking in at least an inch off all the sides. This resulted in a curved front pattern.
 So then I decided to cut the result out in the lining, interlining and wool fabric.
 Here's a secret I didn't use the usual fabrics as I could only use my stash. So it was made with wool outer fabric but cotton lining and interlining.

I reinforced the CF with and extra panel of cotton fabric (the lilac in the photo). Just for extras strength.
 I chalked on the waistline so I knew where to attach the skirt and where the eyelets should go.
Cheated with the eyelets as by this time I just wanted it done. So I used metal eyelets. As this will be under the gown no one should see that they are metal not hand done.
No I don't know why its gone sideways
I also tried it on for a fitting with my 18thC petticoat over the bodice to help with judging the skirt placement.

I pleated the skirt to the bodice by eye. Then I hemmed it. Then I put it aside for a bit as I had other things taking my time.
I then added a guard to the bottom of the kirtle and it was finally finished.

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