"Resign yourself, Catherine! Shops must be visited! Money must be spent! Do you think you could bear it?" - Northanger Abbey

Thursday, March 28, 2013

Regency Morning Dress

I have been ispired by the historical sew fortnightly challenges to go back to my regency outfit and do it 'properly'. First step was the foundations. So went back to the wrap stays [or morning belt] and gave them a nother go. I have the toile done which works well enough just for fittings of the dress etc. but will make up the real ones soon when I get the fabric.

 I also made myself a chemise and will make another one in different fabric to use as a night dress,
As you can see I'm getting the right shape from the stays
 Now as its a morning belt I thought I'd make a morning dress to wear as night/loungewear. now I don't have much material in my stash so I'm having to be a bit clever.

Source: huff.to via Lady on Pinterest

I'm inspired a bit by this image...as you notice the undersleeves look a bit like the sleeves of my chemise. There is a simliar kind of combo in this image.

And this one.

And this one
Source: google.com via Lady on Pinterest

Which is described as having a spencer. I'm also taking note of the garment in pattern of fashion.
Thinking of having a sleeveless dress as a base like this one.

or this one

With a wrapover 'jacket' with long sleeves.

Seen in reality here

Another jacket here

As it would mean I have a summer nighty but with the jacket it becomes a winter one or a 'regency morning dress'.

I have taken some inspiration from these two items.

I have the bodice already sewn and will be using an old petticoat mock up as my base to add a broderie englaise skirt to....

I'll change the front closure to lace up.
I'm then going to make the jacket which will be me being brave and adapting a pattern to work.
But I want to line it like this 'mantle'. Adding some lace on the collar.
hmmmm...should work for lace & lacing challenge.

Monday, March 18, 2013

By the Sea (some musings)

So challenge 8 is 'by the sea' which should be made for me. ;) the description says...
Everyone loves a day at the beach, and the sea has inspired and influenced fashion for millennia. This challenge is all about nautical fashions, whether you make BC pallas and stola to wear at a Roman seaside resort town like Pompeii, something for Cleopatra to lounge in as she barged down the Nile (rivers count as nautical), an outfit for a Viking to keep them warm on a longboat as they explored Newfoundland, a ship to perch on a towering 1770s hairdo, a chemise to be worn in a Regency bathing vehicle, mid-Victorian seaside promenade dresses, late Victorian woolen bathers, or 1930s beach pajamas to wear on the sands of the Cote d'Azure.

So lets look at some ideas. First off I don't need a Edwardian, Victorian or Regency bathing suit. Secondly I have to think about time constraints and what fabric I have in stock. So 20's and 30's were my first port of call. Love a bit of nautical style.

The 1920's search seems to come up in the main swimming costumes.

There was one with a dress.
Source: victoriana.com via Lady on Pinterest

The 1930's however came up with several options. Beach Pajamas. Beach Dresses. Playsuits.

I'm liking the beachdress option or the pinafore type 'playsuit'.

Tuesday, March 12, 2013

A 1940's outfit (for sew for victory sewalong)


As part of the above sewalong I decided to make a complete 1940's ensemble.

Starting with butterick 5209 for the dress. I chose view 'b'. Its a 1947 pattern so after the war but still in rationing (in the UK) so it was cut with a mind not to waste fabric. It left me with a nice long strip of fabric to make bias binding and some accessories from. I plan to make a bag/hat and fabric 'flower' for my hair.

The Dress

As you can see I added an inch to the bottom of the front halterneck peice. This allowed for a bit more ease or else it would have come up a little high. I also cut the waistband peices on the fold to illuminate the seam. I did not cut out any lining.

I found the bodice was quite quick to sew.  About 12hours by hand just for the general construction.
here is dress with hat pinned to it.

The Accessories
Inspired by the newsreels and this image from a 1947 pattern.

The Bag
The bag with be based on the instructions given in a 1940's newsreel. But with a few modifications.

The Hat
The hat will be based on the instructions in a 1940's newsreel. I'm using felt as the base fabric with cotton bias binding for the hat band.

Because I used felt I didn't need 'stiffening' added to the hat. It was a very simple process sewn in one evening.

For my hair.

Now the complete ensemble in the mode of the moment that moment being 1947....

Friday, March 8, 2013

Challenge 5 - Peasants & Pioneers

For challenge 5 of the historical sew a long I kept it simple. Working from what I had in my stash I decided to create an apron. I started with a 45" width of fabric marked dots an inch apart and then counterpane 'smocked' the waist area. I then used some left over bias binding to neaten the top edge and create the waist ties.
The Challenge: 5 - peasants and pioneers

Fabric: white polycotton 45" wide

Pattern: I didn't use a pattern it was freehand.

I was inspired by this apron.

Year: I'm not sure. It could probably pass for most eras I think (if you ignore the fabric content).

Notions: from my stash left over bias binding. embroidery thread.

How historically accurate is it? As its not tied to a particular year I'll let you tell me that.

Hours to complete: It was very quick I'd say roughly 15hours

First worn: erm...ages ago. I've forgotten.

Total cost: free as I used everything from my leftover stash